Wine Wars at Arbutus

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Sommeliers battle it out at a series of dinners

While restaurant kitchens are renowned for having the atmosphere of a war zone, Soho-based Michelin-starred restaurant Arbutus will be bringing conflict to the front of house. Wine Wars (£85) is a monthly contest between Arbutus co-founder Will Smith and a guest sommelier, where each will choose the best wines to match the specially designed menu.

To accompany each course, Smith and his opponent will select a flight of four wines, from which diners will choose their favourite. Only one will triumph.

Each dinner will focus on a single wine region; for the first wine war on Tuesday August 4, Smith will go head to head – or nose to nose – with Ruth Spivey of Craft London and Rotorino in a Piedmont battle featuring the “Killer Bs”: Barolo, Barbaresco and Brunello di Montalcino. The following month, on Monday September 21, the focus will be on Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé and Muscadet from the Loire; the opposition is Frédéric Grappe of Dynamic Vines. On Monday October 12, Colin Thorne of Vagabond will pick Greek wines, served with dishes including seven-hour cooked lamb – with no austerity measures in place.

The good times will continue into 2016, featuring wines from South Africa, Canada and US states Oregon, Washington, Virginia and New York in battles against Courtney Stebbings, formerly of Lyle’s and River Café; James Noble and Liam Kelleher of Noble Fine Liquor; Xavier Rousset, previously of Texture; and Sandia Chang from Bubbledogs and Kitchen Table.

“I look forward to watching the swordplay between the combatant sommeliers,” says Arbutus chef proprietor Anthony Demetre. “On each night of ‘war’, we will be creating menus to showcase the wonderful flavours characteristic of each region, such as ox tongue and sea bass with leeks inspired by the Loire, and, with Piedmont in mind, there will be fresh watermelon with burrata. It’s going to be great to watch Will and his competitor battle it out over each course,” he says with relish.

“I will enter into repartee with my opponent and any hecklers,” says Smith. “Expect to be challenged by the less obvious and hopefully learn something new.”

En garde.