Chic all-day restaurant One Kensington opens

Michelin-star pedigree and members’-club feel lead the way for success

As London restaurants continue to embrace the feel and style of hip members’ clubs, the latest to join the pack is One Kensington, where no letters of introduction, challenging questions or the embarrassment of potential blackballing exist. It aims to have an atmosphere that encourages customers to stay, if they so wish, from brunch to 11 at night.    

“Our aim is to provide an elegant all-day dining experience offering customers the most approachable and efficient service, whether they’re popping in for a glass of champagne, a business lunch or drinks and dinner with friends,” says executive chef Massimiliano Blasone, formerly of Apsley’s at the Lanesborough Hotel (where he was executive chef when it was awarded a Michelin star) and Nikita, the Malibu restaurant owned by Larry Ellison.

It may come as a surprise that One Kensington is the latest restaurant of the Tamarind Collection, for the food will be far removed from the Indian and Mughal cuisine the brand introduced to London – winning the first Michelin star for its genre in the world.  

“My spring menu will feature a selection of light dishes, including pea soup with lobster and quinoa, and poached salmon, beetroot and cucumber, as well as some more hearty dishes, such as loin of venison with salsify and pistachio,” says Blasone. “To showcase our desserts, we’re introducing a sharing “assiette dessert”, as well as an adaptation of the classic Black Forest gateau serviced with kirsch.”

Opening on Monday March 24 in a gothic-revival Victorian former bank, the listed building’s original features – high ceilings and wood-panelled walls – have been splendidly restored. During building work a 19th-century John Tann safe was uncovered, a discovery that is celebrated with the John Tann table, the focus of the champagne bar.

The owners of London’s private members’ clubs might not be crying over torn-up membership cards just yet, but One Kensington is sure to be a popular alternative ­– with Michelin-quality food to match.